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Fixing Commercial Doors that Won’t Close Properly

Below is a transcription of this video, which was created by the Steel Door Institute.

In any building project, secure openings require proper door installation. This video will demonstrate how to correct when the hinge binds against the rabbit or the stop.

Step One: Preparation. Select the right materials and tools for this project. Follow all job site proper safety procedures.

Hinge bind against the rabbit is when the hinge edge of the door, closest to the hinge barrel, is hitting the rabbet of the frame and not allowing the door to open or close properly. There are several ways of shimming, which will move the door away from the hinge jamb and eliminate the hinge bind.

First, open the door and place a support or wooden wedge under the door to relieve tension. Starting with the top hinge, remove the hinge and add a steel shim between the leaf of the hinge and the door or frame. Repeat this process for each hinge on the unit. Use two shims that are each half the thickness of those just used to minimize the gaps and allow the hinge leaf surfaces to remain flush with the rabbet and backset surfaces.

Reinstall the hinge and be sure to tighten the hinge machine screws into the reinforcement. Remove the support or wooden ledge from under the door and close it slowly. Check the clearances for the desired dimension. After each adjustment, the door should be closed slowly to check the perimeter clearances.

Hinge bind against the stop is when the edge of the door closest to the stop is hitting the rabbet of the frame and not allowing the door to close properly. This causes the door to spring back away from the frame on the lock side. There are several ways of shimming which will move the door to eliminate the bind. The following guidelines should be used in shim applications.

Open the door and support it with blocking to relieve tension from the hinges and door. Smaller shims should be used in this application. Starting with the top hinge, remove the hinge and add a shim between the leaf of the hinge and the frame. This smaller shim should be added between the hinge and hinge reinforcement, pushing the door away from the rabbit and eliminating the bind. Repeat this process for each hinge on the unit. Remove the blocking under the door and close it slowly to verify that the clearances meet the desired dimensions.

The procedures in this video are only guidelines. Please follow all applicable building codes, standards, and accepted practices specific to your geographic location.

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How to Fix Door Frames that are Set Twisted or Out of Square

Below is a transcription of this video, which was created by the Steel Door Institute.

Frames twisted or set out of square: This video shows how to correct knockdown frames that have been installed twisted or out of square.

Inspect the opening. Select the right materials and tools for this project. Close the door, and inspect the clearances between the door edge and frame to identify improper installation. Remove the baseboard trim to access the sill straps. Inspect the opening for missing or loose fastening screws, compression anchors, and seal screws. Tighten or replace as necessary. Use a plumb bob or 6-foot level to make sure the frame jambs are plumb. Use a 2-foot level to check if the head is level. Use a setting spreader, PLS, or a tape measure to verify that the jamb opening width is consistent. Use a framing square to check if the jamb is out of square with the header. Use the straight edge to span the hinge and strike jamb faces to determine if the jambs are twisted.

Fixing twisted and out-of-square frames: Remove the door from the frame. Remove the nails or screws that are securing the sill anchors to the wall; this will loosen the jamb and allow it to be squared and fix the twist. If the frame is caulked in place, take a razor knife and score along the return of the frame and wallboard to cut any caulking or paint that has been used. Note: Be careful not to damage the wallboard when cutting. If the head was not leveled, this needs to be corrected first.

Determine whether to shim up the strike, hinge, or possibly both to relevel the head. Loosen the compression anchor screw on the jamb that needs to be moved to square the head. Insert the temporary spreader between the jambs; this will correct the door opening dimension by moving the jamb rabbets and faces into a parallel position, ensuring that all rabbets contact the setting spreader. Set the strike jamb first by adjusting the compression anchors and then checking squareness with the head; then check that the jamb is plumb.

Install the base anchor loosely. Set the hinge jamb next and repeat the previous step. Once the jambs are correct, tighten the screws to the sill straps or frame face and also tighten the compression anchors. Check for level and plumb before completely tightening. Remove the spreader bar and hang the door back in the opening; verify that all perimeter gaps between the door and the frames are consistent and correct for the manufacturer. If baseboards were removed, they can now be reinstalled on the wall. If caulking was cut, reapply the caulking and paint as required.

Reference ANSI/SDI 250.11 for recommended methods of steel frame installation. The procedures in this video are only guidelines. Please follow all applicable building codes, standards, and accepted practices specific to your geographic location.

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How to Install a Steel Door Frame in Masonry Construction

Below is a transcription of this video, which was created by the Steel Door Institute.

In any building project, secure openings require proper frame installation. In this video, you will learn how to prepare, install, and verify the proper installation of a door frame.

Locate the frame at the door opening location. Verify the frame opening number to the actual opening location number; the two should match. Next, compare the handing and size of the frame to the drawing. Also, check the hardware schedule. Contact your distributor if the information does not match. Verify that the proper hardware reinforcements are installed on the frame. Also, verify the hinge size, strike type, and closer mounting. For this installation, we’re using a 4-1/2 inch hinge, an ASA strike, and both regular arm and parallel arm closer reinforcements. Wire anchors work in a variety of masonry applications and will be used in this installation.

Next, determine if the floor finish will be concrete, carpet, wood, or tile. Always verify the floor conditions to the drawing before setting the frame. Circumstances may call for mounting the frame directly to the concrete. There may be carpet. There may be tile. There may be ceramic tile, or there may be wood flooring to go into place. Adjust the frame properly to the floor conditions so that the doors will not drag the floor when installation is complete.

Some wood and tile finishes, such as quarry, are up to 3/4 inch thick. Frames may need to be adjusted off the subfloor for different thickness floor coverings. In this application, there are no additional floor coverings, and no frame adjustment is required. Frames are provided with adjustable base anchors that allow you to adapt for floor surfaces up to 1-3/8 inches. Contact your job supervisor for verification of finished flooring.

The frame may be shipped already welded, or it may ship KD (knocked down). In this installation, our frame is pre-welded. In a KD frame, some assembly is required; it is minimal. Slots and tabs go together, and the most important tab connection is at the rabbet part of the frame. Those tabs should be bent in an outward position. Install base anchors to the frame using the screws provided.

Pre-welded frames are transported to the job site using a shipping bar to prevent the frame from twisting in transit. This bar is not to be used as a spreader bar to set the frame. The shipping bar comes welded from the factory. It is important that it is properly removed grinding it off; do not bend or twist it off. Stand the frame up in the wall line at the proposed location using the spreader that is precisely cut to the door opening specification, place it between the hinge and strike jambs at the floor. The spreaders must be cut squarely and accurately; this will help in aligning the jambs as they are anchored to the floor. This is very critical.

Anchor the base anchors to the floor on each jamb using a concrete screw or dry thin-type anchor. In this application, we’re using a drive pin anchor. Check to ensure the frame has not moved away from the layout lines. Check the head of the frame for level accuracy. Throughout any frame installation, it is important that the frame is continually checked for plumb, level, and square; this cannot be emphasized enough. You may need to adjust the base anchors to achieve a level head and proper floor clearance. You can shim the bottom of the jamb with a flat washer or a fender washer. Always check for level accuracy after you make an adjustment.

With the frame in place, the jamb should be temporarily braced. For our installation, we will use two by fours to brace the unit. If your installation requires electrical components, now is the time to install conduit or flex cable for low-voltage wiring. Next, install a piece of tie wire 48 inches from the finished floor around the frame. Twist the wire tight; this creates inward tension to hold the spreader in place. Now, place another spreader in between the hinge and strike jambs. This mid-frame spreader is important for keeping the frame straight and in alignment. Check the frame for plumb, level, and square accuracy.

Before the mason begins laying block, the mason should check the frame is plumb, level, and square. With the frame now temporarily braced, and plumb and level in all directions, the laying of the block may begin. As the brick-layer begins to lay the block, the courses should be brought up evenly on both sides of the door frame. Care should be taken not to push the frame out of plumb with the block. Fill the jamb with mortar evenly up both sides. Lightly tap the frame to settle the mortar.

At the third course, or approximately 24 inches off the floor, lay in a wire anchor on the hinge and strike jambs. Once this is complete, check the frame again for plumb, level, and square in all directions. Adjust as needed. Continue laying the block. Fill the jamb with mortar evenly up both sides. Lightly tap the frame to settle the mortar. At the sixth course, or approximately 48 inches off the floor, lay in another anchor on the hinge and strike jambs. Again, check the frame again for plumb and level in all directions and adjust as needed. Continue laying the block.

After laying eight or nine courses, the masonry should be allowed to set up overnight. The spreaders and the temporary back bracing should remain in place overnight. Before leaving the site for the day, clean any mortar out of the hinged pockets and strike reinforcements. Also, clear any mortar droppings away from the face of the frame.

At the start of day two, remove the back braces. Be careful not to damage the door frame. Spreaders should remain in place if possible. Fill the jambs with mortar evenly up both sides, lightly tap the frame to settle the mortar. At the ninth course, or approximately 72 inches off the floor, lay in another anchor on the hinge and strike jambs. Again, check the frame for plumb, level, and square, and adjust as needed. Continue to lay the block up to the top of the frame.

The head will now need to be filled with mortar. Anytime you fill a head with mortar that is over 42 inches in length, to prevent sagging, always putting in a vertical brace from the bottom of the head down to the floor. Shim the vertical brace as needed to maintain the levelness of the head. After the lintel is laid over the frame, the frame head should again be checked for level, ensuring no sagging has taken place. Your frame installation is now complete and ready for the next stage of construction. If you have any frame installation questions, please contact your distributor or project job supervisor for assistance.

The procedures in this video are only guidelines. Please follow all applicable building codes, standards, and accepted practices specific to your geographic location.

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Fixing Uneven Gaps or Clearance Between a Door and Frame

Below is a transcription of this video, which was created by the Steel Door Institute.

Troubleshooting improper door clearance after installation: In any building project, secure openings require proper door installation. This video will demonstrate how to troubleshoot door clearance issues right after installation.

Step one: Preparation. Select the right materials and tools for this project. Inspect the general condition of the opening. Determine if the frame opening width is consistent from top to bottom. If it is not, then the inconsistent gap is caused by an incorrect frame installation. Improperly set frames will cause severe door and hardware problems. These types of situations could require extensive field repair and may result in having to remove frames from walls to gain access to the frame anchoring.

Assess the opening to determine where the incorrect clearance is occurring. Sometimes clearance issues can be caused by loose or missing screws. Open the door to ensure it has all the screws and that they are properly tightened. Check that all the hinges are the same size and that a heavyweight hinge is not mixed in with the standard weight hinges. For heavyweight hinge applications, ensure that the reinforcements have been modified to accept the heavyweight hinge correctly. See SDI videos on door installation or consult with your door manufacturer for more information on converting standard weight hinge reinforcements to heavyweight hinge reinforcements.

The following issues can be corrected by placing metal shims in specific locations: Door clearance is too tight at the top lock side of the opening. Door clearance is too tight at the bottom lock side of the opening. Entire door shifted too far towards the hinge side of the opening. Entire door shifted too far towards the lock side of the opening.

When the door clearance is too tight at the top lock side of the opening, place the shims between the hinge leaf and door at the bottom and middle hinges. This will shift the top half of the door upward. To do this, open the door and place a support or wooden wedge under the door to relieve tension. Starting with the bottom hinge, remove the hinge screws on the door first and insert the shim between the hinge leaf and door. Reattach the hinge leaf to the door with screws. Repeat the shimming at the middle hinge location. This will shift the top half of the door upward, adjusting the clearances around the perimeter. Remove the support or wooden wedge from under the door. Close the door and check to see if the clearance issue has been resolved. If not, add additional shims as necessary to the same locations, making sure you maintain hinge screw thread engagement.

When the door clearance is too tight at the bottom lock side of the opening, place the shims between the hinge leaf and door at the top and middle hinges. This will shift the lower half of the door downward. When the entire door has shifted too far towards the hinge side of the opening, place shims between the hinge leaf and door at all hinge locations. This will shift the door towards the lock side.

When the entire door has shifted too far towards the lock side of the opening, the following issue can be corrected by recessing the hinge leaf further into the door or frame, causing the door to shift closer to the hinge side. Open the door and place a support or wooden wedge under the door to relieve tension. Remove the hinge screws from the door. Start with the top hinge. If there are fewer plates, shims, or wire spacers, you can remove or modify these to recess the hinge leaf further into the door. Reattach the hinge leaf to the door with screws. Repeat this process for the middle and bottom hinge locations. Remove the support or wooden wedge from under the door. Close the door and check to see if the clearance issue has been resolved.

The procedures in this video are only guidelines. Please follow all applicable building codes, standards, and accepted practices specific to your geographic location.

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How to Install a Steel Door Frame in Steel Stud Construction

Below is a transcription of this video, which was created by the Steel Door Institute.

In any building project, secure openings require proper frame installation. In this video, you will learn how to prepare, install, and verify the proper installation of the door frame.

For this installation, we are using a 4-1/2 inch hinge, an ASA strike, and both regular arm and parallel arm closer reinforcements. A standard five and three-quarter-inch steel stud anchor will be used when your wall system consists of a three and five-eighth-inch steel stud using 5/8 inch drywall on each side. Some frame installations may require non-standard or custom anchors. For this installation, we’re using both standard steel stud and wood stud anchors.

Next, determine if the floor finish will be concrete, carpet, wood, or tile. Always verify floor conditions to the drawing before setting the frame. Circumstances may call for mounting the frame directly to the concrete. There may be carpet. There may be tile. There may be ceramic tile, or there may be wood flooring to go into place. Adjust the frame properly to the floor conditions so that the doors will not drag the flooring when installation of the frame is complete.

Some wood and tile finishes, such as quarry, are up to 3/4 inch thick; the frames may need to be adjusted off the subfloor for different thickness floor coverings. In this application, there are no additional floor coverings, and no frame adjustment is required. Frames are provided with adjustable base anchors that allow you to adapt for floor surfaces up to 1 3/8 inches. Contact your job supervisor for verification of finished flooring.

At this point, the steel studs will be in place, leaving out the studs around the rough opening. Stand the frame up in the wall line at the proposed location. Using a proper size spreader, place it between the hinge and strike jambs at the floor. The spreaders must be cut squarely and accurately; this will help in aligning the jambs as they are anchored to the floor. This is very critical. Make sure the frame is positioned to allow for the thickness of the drywall.

Anchor the base anchors to the floor on each jamb using a concrete screw or drive pin-type anchor. In this application, we are using a drive pin anchor. Install a minimum of six anchors; place three on the hinge jamb and three on the strike jamb. Proper anchor spacing is important; an anchor must be above each hinge and directly across at the same height on the strike jamb. We’re installing a 7-foot frame in this application; frames taller than seven feet, six inches will require additional anchors. For additional guidance on anchor placement, consult the industry standards as published by the Steel Door Institute. If your installation requires electrical components, now is the time to install conduits or flex cable for low-voltage wire.

Place another spreader in between the hinge and strike jambs. This mid-frame spreader is important for keeping the frame straight and in alignment. Check the head of the frame for level accuracy; you may need to adjust the base anchors to achieve a level head and proper floor clearance. Now move the studding in place and begin screwing the studs to the track at the bottom, installing screws on each side of the stud. Once the base of the stud is anchored, proceed with securing the studs against each jamb to the top steel stud plate. Then install screws on both sides of the stud.

Next, install the header above the frame. The stud should be perpendicular to the steel stud track. The dimension between the jambs should be the same at the top and bottom of the frame. At this point, the frame has not yet been anchored to the stud. Check the frame again for plumb, level, and square. Go to the top steel stud anchor on the strike jamb and secure it with screws. The hinge and strike jambs should be plumb in all directions.

Position the top of the hinge jamb to the stud so that it will accept the proper thickness drywall on each side. Due to the type of framing conditions that we have here at this opening, we’ve chosen to use a wood stud anchor. The wood stud anchor has ears on it which allows us to bend the ears, wrap it around the stud, and then face screw it to the stud for an easier application. Bend the anchor ear around the stud to hold the anchor in place. Attach the anchor to the stud with the screws provided. Once the anchors are secured, check the frame for plumb. Making sure the frame is plumb, level, and square ensures that the door, once installed, will operate properly.

Once the dimension and trueness of the frame are verified, the remainder of the frame anchors can be screwed to the studs. Each anchor should be secured with a minimum of two screws. When using wood stud anchors, be sure to bend the ears tightly against the stud. After the frame is secured to the studs and tightly anchored, it should be checked again for trueness in all directions. If the opening requires it, verify electrical wiring needs.

When the drywall installer arrives, the installer should check that the frame is plumb, level, and square before hanging the drywall. It is the drywall installer’s responsibility to avoid excessive shoving of the drywall into the hinge, strike, or head jambs and throwing the frame out of alignment. Spreaders should be left in place during the hanging of drywall to help prevent the frame from being knocked out of plumb. During the drywall installation, it may be necessary to chamfer back the edge of the drywall so it can slip over screw heads that may be present around the frame because of the studding. As you install the drywall, gently work it in and around the frame, trying to avoid knocking the frame out of alignment. Once the drywall is in place, replumb the frame and then anchor off the drywall.

The frame should again be checked for trueness before screwing the drywall off to the perimeter studs around the frame. The frame installation is now complete and ready for the next stage of construction. If you have any frame installation questions, please contact your distributor or project job supervisor for assistance.

The procedures in this video are only guidelines. Please follow all applicable building codes, standards, and accepted practices specific to your geographic location.

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How Fire Rated Doors are Made and Tested

Below is a transcription of this video, which was created by the Steel Door Institute.

Today, I’ll be talking about fire-rated doors, including door cores, door construction methods, and the inspection process. Plus, I’ll have a video of an actual fire test for you. Come on; I’ll show you how it’s done.

Three of the most commonly specified cores in fire-rated doors are honeycomd, steel stiffe, and polystyrene. The honeycomb core door is a real simple paper honeycomb core that’s bonded to the steel sheet. The second and second most common one is the steel stiffen door where the steel stiffeners are spot-welded to the steel skin. The third is the polystyrene. However, this door here, because it’s a full glass door, has very little polystyrene in it but we will see this one fire-tested later on in this video.

The testing process can’t begin until the internationally recognized testing agencies send their inspectors out to the review the doors prior to them being assembled. So, they will come out and inspect the cores, the materials, the bonding agents and glues, the steel stiffeners, etc. So, they will come out and inspect all these doors, measure, and document all the door construction prior to them being assembled. Once they’re fully assembled, the inspector will initial and sign off that he wants the assembly of these doors before they go off to the testing laboratory for the fire test.

A fire test must be conducted by an internationally recognized independent testing laboratory. Ratings are given in time increments from 20 minutes to three hours. As the test progresses, the temperature is steadily increased to simulate conditions of a real fire. As you can see, the door is securely positioned in front of the furnace. The furnace is strictly controlled and is continuously monitored for temperature and pressure. The furnace gets extremely hot, reaching up to 1500 degrees in less than 30 minutes. At 90 minutes it reaches 1750 degrees, and then at three hours, it’s more than 1900 degrees. The test isn’t complete until the host stream testing portion of the test is completed.

When you purchase a fire-rated door from an SDI member, you know that your product will meet your specifications, delivering the safety and durability that only a steel door can deliver.

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How to Install Punch and Dimple Frames in Masonry Construction

Below is a transcription of this video, which was created by the Steel Door Institute.

How to install punch and dimple frames in a masonry opening: In any building project, secure openings require the proper installation of a door frame. In this video, we’ll demonstrate how to install punch and dimple frames in a masonry opening.

Select the appropriate materials and tools for the project. Locate the correct frame by matching the opening number to the number on the frame. Ensure the rough opening has the proper dimensions per the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Be sure to check the opening height in two places across the width of the opening. The width should be measured at three places – top, middle and bottom. This will help determine the amount of shimming that may be needed to install the frame. Note: The rough opening shall be no less than 1/4 inch larger in width and 3/16th inch in height than the frame. The maximum rough opening should not exceed 3/8 inch larger than the frame width and 1/4 inch in height.

Check the opening for plumb, level, and square. Use a six-foot level for both jambs and a framing square for the corners. If the rough opening is out of spec for plumb, level or square, do not proceed with installing the frame. Determine the placement of the frame within the width of the wall for the job specification. It may be centered or offset to one side of the opening. If installing a knockdown frame, assemble the frame per the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re installing a welded frame, remove the shipping spreader bar before placing the frame in the opening.

Make a mark at the top and the bottom of the masonry wall. Snap a chalk line between the two marks. Set the frame into the opening using the chalk line on the wall to locate it. Install the setting spreader bar at the bottom of the frame. Verify that the head is level. If it’s not level, shim under the bottom of the frame, keeping the hinge side tight to the wall and adding shims to the lock side to tighten the frame to the spreader bar. If more than 1/4 inch shim is needed, divide the amount of shims evenly between the two jambs. Make sure all four rabbets of the frame touch the spreader; this will prevent the twist in the frame. Add shims to the jambs and measure to ensure the appropriate width is maintained. Align the hinge jamb to the chalk line. Check the jamb for level and plumb.

Determine the size hole needed for the anchor as per the installation instructions or project specifications. We recommend drilling and anchoring one anchor at a time. Start with the bottom anchor on the hinge jamb. Drill and install the anchor. Ensure the frame remains plumb and level, and then tighten the anchor to the manufacturer’s recommended torque. Verify the frame’s alignment is correct. Then, install the top and middle anchors, checking the frame alignment as each anchor is installed. Also, check the jamb for straightness with the level as each anchor bolt is installed. Tape a string to the front of the frame and opposite corners, running diagonally to confirm their alignment. Leave the string in place until the frame is completely installed.

Begin anchoring the strike jamb in the same sequence as the hinge jamb. Be sure to check the width at the center of the frame as you install the anchors. Remove the string and spreader bar. Fill any gaps between the frame and wall with caulk or backerod. Your frame installation is complete and is now ready for the next phase of construction.

The procedures in this video are only guidelines. Please follow all applicable building codes, standards, and accepted practices specific to your geographic location.

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How to Install Slip-On Drywall Frames

Below is a transcription of this video, which was created by the Steel Door Institute.

How to install slip-on drywall frames with compression anchors: In any building project, secure openings require the proper installation of a door frame. In this video, we’ll demonstrate how to install slip-on drywall frames with compression anchors.

Select the appropriate tools and materials for the project. Locate the correct frame by matching the opening number to the opening on the frame. Measure the width and height of the rough opening to ensure they meet the manufacturer’s recommendations. Then measure the thickness of the wall for the frame throat opening. Be sure to check where the vertical studs meet the head.

Slip the frame head over the rough opening header and center it in the opening. Install the hinge jamb by slipping it over the wall at an angle and engaging the jamb into the head. Finish straightening the jamb by slipping it over the wall, ensuring the drywall has entered the frame throat and opening on both faces of the wall. Install the strike jamb in the same way.

Insert a setting spreader at the floor of the opening. Make sure all four rabbets of the frame touch the spreader bar; this will prevent a twist in the frame. Snug the compression anchors evenly in each jamb. Use a level and a framing square to check for plumb, square, and twist. Anchor the base of the hinge jamb to both faces of the wall using the provided anchor system. Repeat the process for the strike jamb and remove the spreader bar. Your frame installation is complete and is now ready for the next phase of construction.

The procedures in this video are only guidelines. Please follow all applicable building codes, standards, and accepted practices specific to your geographic location.

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How to Install a Commercial Steel Door

Below is a transcription of this video, which was created by the Steel Door Institute.

How to install a commercial steel door: In any building project, secure openings require proper door installation. This video will guide you through the key steps for the proper installation of a commercial steel door.

Step one: Preparation. Select the right materials and tools for this project. Locate the correct door by looking at the mark or opening number on the door. The mark number could be on a label written on the top or bottom channel or stamped into a hinge reinforcement. Unpack the door. Verify the door with the drawing and hardware schedule to ensure that you have the correct door, frame, and hardware set. Before starting door installation, make sure the frame opening is the correct width and is plumb, square, and level. If the opening is not true, it can cause issues with the door fit as well as hardware function. If required, verify that the door and frame have a fire label for the opening. Check the hardware schedule. Contact your distributor if the information does not match.

Step two: Hinge application and door installation. Locate the top of the door by comparing the hinge locations on the frame to the hinge locations on the door. Remember, the top hinge location will be 1/8 inch less to allow for clearance between the door and frame when installed. Check the screw holes and reinforcements in the door and frame to make sure they are clear of foreign matter. Remove any excess grout, filler, paint, or weld splatter from the reinforcement. Use a screw or tap to clear the threads on any screw holes that have foreign matter. Check the hardware schedule or submittals to verify if you are using standard or heavyweight hinges. For the application of standard weight hinges, simply attach the hinges to the door using the machine screws provided by the hinge manufacturer. Take care not to overtighten the machine screws.

Step three: Door installation. Stand the door up on end by resting the bottom of the door on the floor. Move the door close to the opening. Place a wood wedge or other support under the door to hold the weight. Align the top hinge on the door with the top hinge cut out on the frame. The top hinge is typically installed first to hold the weight of the door. Using the machine screws provided by the hinge manufacturer, install the hinges to the frame reinforcement at the top hinge location. Install the middle and bottom hinge. Remove wood wedge or other support from under the door. Close the door and verify there are proper clearances between the rabbet of the frame and the edge of the door. The door should swing freely. If the door does not swing freely, SDI 122 can be referenced to help troubleshoot installation issues such as bind or alignment. Install lockset, closer, and any other auxiliary hardware.After installing the lock set, open and close the door to ensure the latch is engaging properly in the strike.

Application of heavyweight hinges. Many manufacturers offers built-in features that allow hinge pockets on doors and frames to be modified from standard weight to heavyweight. There are a variety of methods which they can be modified, such as grinding or flattening down raised embossments in shin plates or reinforcements, removing or breaking off hinge filler shim plates, adjusting set screws, or removing wire shims.

These options all involve removing material from the pocket to allow for thicker heavier weight hinges to fit in the hinge pocket. Failure to do so may result in the door not swinging freely. Check with individual manufacturers to determine the type of modifications offered. Once the modification is complete, apply the hinges using the machine screws provided by the hinge manufacturer. Then, follow the same instructions previously given for installing and checking the door.

Application of hinges to a non-handed door: For non-handed doors, locate the non-handed filler plates and make sure you have the correct quantity. The handing or filler places may be supplied separately or attached to the hinge reinforcement with tape or a nylon plug. Remove and discard the plug. Install the handing or filler plates between the door hinge reinforcement and the hinge using machine screws provided by the hinge manufacturer. If using heavyweight hinges, check for the manufacturer’s recommended hinge reinforcement modification. After applying the handing or filler plate and hinge, check to be sure they are flush with the door edge or door face. After installing handing or filling plates, follow the previous instructions for installing the door.

The procedures in this video are only guidelines. Please follow all applicable building codes, standards, and accepted practices specific to your geographic location.

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